SFA 1203 Lecture 3: Polaroid / Impossible emulsion lift workshop

January 14, 2016February 3, 2016Leave a comment

WHAT IS IT?

Emulsion lift (also known as emulsion transfer) is an interesting photographic technique. By using this method, you can transfer your image onto a completely different surface like mug, paper, t-shirt, or tote bag, for creative printmaking.

It is all about the jelly-like emulsion layer of instant film being separated from its clear layer. Afterwards, a picture can be reattached to other surface you want. Other than that, you can enlarge or change the shape of the image during the process.

WHAT YOU NEED

Instant photo x 1

Scissors x 1

Soft paintbrush x 2-3

Tray of water (in room temperature) x 1

Carrier surface

STEP-BY-STEP

1. Use scissors to cut the edge off the picture.

2. Remove the whole frame. You will get a square image.

3. Peel the black plastic foil away from the image.

4. Soak the picture into the water for few minutes.

5. Use a paintbrush to gently brush the image layer (thin emulsion layer) away from the transparent plastic foil in water.

6. Pick the plastic out from the tray. Only keep the emulsion layer in the water. Make sure your image is forward.

7. Take the carrier material you have already prepared. Gently place it underneath the emulsion layer.

8. Carefully position the image layer on top of new surface by using paintbrush. Of course, you can use your fingers for help!

9. Remove the transferred image from water. After it is taken out of the water, you can still create or remove wrinkles and move the image around or even flatten it.

10. Once you finished playing around the shape, let it dry for about 24 hours. The emulsion will stick on the new surface. And you have a Polaroid / Impossible emulsion lift!

IMPORTANT NOTE

You have to do the emulsion lift within 2 or 3 days after the image is taken. Once the image solidifies, you will no longer be able to separate the layers.

SFA 1203 Lecture 2: After effect – Manipulation by Impossible film

January 13, 2016January 27, 2016Leave a comment

WHAT IS IT?

Manipulation is an alternative artistic “painterly effect”. You can convert a normal picture into an Impressionism painting or oil painting! It is very creative, isn’t it?

From old films like Polaroid SX-70 Time Zero or 600 to The Impossible Project. You can create an image with unique result through manipulation, before the emulsion dries.

instant-university_SFA1203-lecture-2-manipulation-#1

“Manipulation makes your Impossible PX70 and PX680 like a little impressionist canvas.” – Carmen Palermo (Credits: The Impossible Project & Carmen Palermo)

HOW?

Manipulation involves taking a blunt object by applying pressure to a still developing Polaroid. The tools used to the process could be a wooden stick or Cold Clip Pen by Impossible. Sharp tool would ruin the emulsion layer so avoid using it.

Use pressure to create a blending and slight distortion on the chemicals. Remember, the picture can no longer be restored.

**Drawing on Impossible film is not as easy as the original Polaroid SX70 film. To do so, it is better for you to heat up the image by hairdryer first and draw harder.

ECOR 1100 Lecture 3: Understanding exposure value (EV)

January 13, 2016January 21, 2016Leave a comment

HISTORY

In 1950s, Friedrich Deckel, a German shutter manufacturer, first developed the concept of exposure value (EV). He attempted to simplify choosing among combinations of equivalent camera settings.

DEFINITION

Exposure value is defined as the exact amount of light hitting a photographic film or image sensor determined by lens aperture and shutter speed, to product a picture which is correctly exposed – neither too light nor too dark.

WHAT IS IT?

In photography, EV is a numerical scale that represents a combination of a camera’s shutter speeds (determine the amount of motion blur) and f-numbers (determine the depth of field), such that all combinations that yield the same exposure have the same EV value.

Even though all camera settings giving the same EV, it does not mean that they give the same picture. For instance, if you fasten up the shutter speed, the aperture will become larger automatically for compensation, in turns your image maintain the same EV but with shallower depth of field.

EV also indicates an interval on the photographic exposure scale, 1 EV equals to a standard power of 2 exposure steps, that is, an increment of one step on the EV scale indicates a one step (also called as a stop) increase in exposure, and vice versa.

WHEN?

instant-university_ECOR1100-lecture-3-understanding-exposure-value-#4

If you think your image is quite dark, you can increase the EV. Conversely, if the image is too bright, you can simply decrease the EV.

WHICH CAMERA?

In fact, many instant cameras provide the exposure controls, like Polaroid cameras and MiNT InstantFlex TL70. For example, the EV numbers on Polaroid Land camera Model 180 range from EV 5 to EV 22 while MiNT InstantFlex TL70’s offers EV +/-1.

CC 1235 Lecture 1: Choose right film for my camera

January 8, 2016February 3, 2016Leave a comment

IMPOSSIBLE EVOLUTION

Old cameras & new films

After Polaroid Corporation announced that all instant films would no longer be produced after 2008, The Impossible Project was founded and bought the entire Polaroid factory in Enschede, Netherlands – they pledged to bring Polaroid film back.

AT PRESENT

The Impossible Project is the only company in the world producing instant films for classic Polaroid SX-70 and 600 cameras. Another famous Japan-based company Fujifilm produces not only digital cameras but also instant cameras and films.

In this lecture, you will know clearly about films that are still being widely used and how to choose the right film for your camera.

THE IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT

Instant films produced by The Impossible Project can be categorised by 4 types:

Polaroid SX-70 – Color / Black & White
Polaroid 600-Type – Color / Black & White
Polaroid Image / Spectra – Color / Black & White
8×10 Cameras and Backs – Color / Black & White

It’s easy to know which film is compatible with your camera. Simply open the film door and you will see a sticker indicating “600” type film / “SX-70” type film / “Image” or “Spectra” type film.

Polaroid SX-70 film is acceptable with:

– Polaroid SX-70
– Polaroid SX-70 Model 3
– Polaroid Onestep
-Polaroid Time Zero Onestep
– Polaroid 1000
– Polaroid 1000 Deluxe
– Polaroid Supercolor 1000 Deluxe
– Polaroid 3000
– Polaroid Pronto! RF

Polaroid 600 film is acceptable with:

– Polaroid 600 Autofocus 660
– Polaroid SLR 680
-Polaroid SLR 690
– Polaroid Integral 600 series
– Polaroid One Step close-up
– Polaroid One Step AF Autofocus Digital Exposure System
– Polaroid Sun 600 LMS Light Management System

Polaroid Image / Spectra film is acceptable with:

– Polaroid Spectra / Image series

In March 2015, Impossible announced the initial launch of Generation 2.0 (Gen2.0) film for the Black & White line. Now, the newly launched Black & White films work with all types of cameras stated above. New formula of Black & White has a quicker developing time, increased contrast and tonality.

In January 2016, Impossible launches Generation 3.0 (Gen3.0) film for the Color line. At present, it is exclusively for Impossible Member to test before general release. This generation of color film marks a significant improvement on Impossible’s current 600 color film formula. Photos develop in less half the time.

FUJIFILM

Fujifilm now has 3 types of film: Instax mini film, Instax wide film and FP-film (packfilm). They are available in color films only. FP-3000B (ISO 3000 Black & White) was discontinued in May 2015.

Instax mini film is acceptable with:

– MiNT InstantFlex TL70
– Fujifilm Instax Mini 7S
– Fujifilm Instax Mini 8
– Fujifilm Instax Mini 25
– Fujifilm Instax Mini 50S
– Fujifilm Instax Mini 70
– Fujifilm Instax Mini 90 NEO CLASSIC
– Lomo’Instant series

Instax wide film is acceptable with:

– Fujifilm Instax 210 Wide
– Fujifilm Instax Wide 300
– Lomo’Instant Wide series

FP-100C film is designed to be used in the instant backs for medium format SLR cameras and Polaroid Land cameras.

CC 1420 Lecture 4: Travel survival kit – For your Polaroid cameras

January 7, 2016January 21, 2016Leave a comment

INSTRUCTION

The following list offers broad guidelines; from
emergency preparedness to responsive planning
when facing certain sudden occurrences about your instant camera during travel.

Of course, if you are not expert in camera maintenance & repair, you may feel helpless in this matter – don’t forget you are going to be a certified professional! We have got you covered!

CHECKLIST

The essential

Empty pack
(always bring an empty film pack with good battery along the way)

SYMPTOM

1. Sticky film (i.e. when you can’t take any picture / the camera doesn’t respond)
2. The camera won’t close
3. The viewfinder goes dark

Possible causes

The mirror inside did not flip back down
You didn’t press the shutter long enough to give instruction to the camera
Part of camera is either blocked or jammed during exposure

Solution

Empty film pack testing
→ If you have a used and not-so-successful film e.g. overexposed, bring it with you when traveling. This comes in very handy when you need to diagnose problems, or you want to change film even if you have not finished the current pack.

STEP(1) Open the camera film door, you should find a small black plastic curtain. Through the black plastic curtain, find the upper most film of the film pack and insert the used film on top of it. The used film will act like a shield and block any light contacting the film.

STEP(2) Now you can remove the pack out of your camera safely.

STEP(3) Make sure the card covers the whole sheet of film. Slightly adjust after pulled the pack out.

STEP(4) Insert the empty film pack you have prepared. Press the shutter for a few times. Take out the film pack from the camera.

STEP(5) Repeat step 4 for several times. It is like restarting the camera and setting it back to normal.

STEP(6) DONE!

SYMPTOM

Some dots, weird bright or dark strips appear on image.

Possible cause

Splotchy rollers (Chemicals or dusts accumulated on rollers can cause unsatisfied out of tune images or even failure of ejection)

Solution

Clean the rollers by yourself

STEP(1) Get a cotton cloth and dip it with sterilising fluid. You can easily find cotton and isopropyl alcohol in the first aid box in hotel room. You can also try using wipes or wet cotton.

STEP(2) Wipe the rollers from one side to another, until the white patches are all removed.

STEP(3) The fluid should dry itself quickly without wiping it off.

STEP(4) Your camera will run like new!

P.S. It is possible for both Polaroid and Impossible Project films to have too much chemicals. Remember to clean the rollers regularly!

SYMPTOM

The camera does not respond at all

There are hundreds of feasible reasons. These are the most common ones.

Possible cause #1

Camera intermittent failure caused by extreme physical coldness

Solution

Try to put the camera in your coat pocket and use body temperature to warm it up.

Possible cause #2

Disconnection of film pack

Solution

Try empty film pack testing. Take out the film cartridge and insert it back. Make sure you pop the cartridge into place with some strength. Hold the front edge but not blocking the picture exit slot).

If your film was bought long time ago (more than 1 year), the battery may run out and die. It cannot be used anymore because it simply does not start the camera up.

SYMPTOM

A black viewfinder

Possible cause

If your camera operates normally and can take photos, just that the viewfinder goes dark, you can try pulling the film cartridge out and put back in for several times. For better result, try empty film pack testing to reset the camera. If the problem continues, it is possible that the slingshot under the accordion has lost its elasticity.

Solution

What you can do is to use some objects to raise and hold up the accordion, to hold the mirror within the viewfinder. Then, you can continue shooting! However, this can only cure the symptoms, not the disease. In long term, you have to repair the camera after traveling.

CC 1420 Lecture 3: Air traveling with instant films and cameras

January 7, 2016January 21, 2016Leave a comment

WHY ANNOTATE?

Many Instant Photographers may have the same X-ray concern about carrying undeveloped films when traveling. In this chapter, you will learn what to do and what NOT to do when traveling, without X-ray damaging to your instant films and cameras.

HOW?

instant-university_CC1420-lecture-3-air-traveling-with-instant-films-and-cameras-#3 Before departure

BRING FILMS AS CARRY-ON LUGGAGE

Unprocessed film is sensitive to light just as they are waiting to be exposed. Although Impossible Project film has a rather low ISO of 160 for SX-70, and ISO 640 for 600 cameras, X-ray of checked baggage screener may still penetrate and expose the film. Whereas carry-on baggage screener has a much milder X-ray – films under ISO800 such as Fujifilm instax mini film and instax wide film are usually not affected.

So never pack unprocessed film in baggage that will be checked. Or you can politely insist on hand-inspection of the film whenever possible.

After arrival

PHOTOGRAPHING IN EXTREME TEMPERATURES

Extreme cold guide

When you want to take photos in a freezing cold place (e.g. -10°C to -15°C / 14°F to 5°F and below), you should put the camera inside your bag or your coat pocket and keep it near your body prior to shooting. Using your body temperature is a good way to ensure that your camera will work well.

Instant film is highly sensitive to temperature. After the camera ejects picture, immediately place it in your pocket or directly onto heat pads. A moderate room temperature of around 25°C / 77°F is optimal for developing camera pictures. Warm the photo with your body temperature is the easiest way. Low temperature will overexpose a photo. It may look bluish, lightened and less contrasted.

Extreme hot guide

Travelling in a place with hot weather (e.g. 35°C to 40°C / 95°F to 104°F and above) is a different situation. Keeping the developing image under shade and keep it cool will help correcting the white balance and prevent reddish and yellowish to a large extent. DO NOT leave the exposing photo under direct sunlight.

Tips:
Hot temperature has a greater effect on B&W film than color. If you wish to get a better result with Polaroid cameras, snap with Impossible Color Film!

Impossible Project film can deliver good results when used within a temperature range of 13°C to 28°C / 55°F to 82°F, while 5°C to 40°C / 41°F to 104°F for Fujifilm instant film.

After arrival

SHIELDING

Even with Color Protection Film, it is possible to be overexposed under strong sunlight. The first few seconds are extremely crucial for image development. Always shield the film from light when it is ejected.

Can I use a black card, to cover the film with a hand or quickly turn the photo upside down?

To put a black card at picture exit slot is economical and may help, but it will not work as perfect as the Frog Tongue from Impossible Project.

After arrival

THE USE OF MANUAL FOCUS

Some Polaroid cameras such as SX-70 Sonar, use sonar to auto focus. When you are on a coach or railway cabin, visiting in museum or aquarium, as long as there is glass between you and the object, the sonar auto focus will not work because sonar will bounce back when it hits the glass. In order to shoot through glass, simply switch to manual focus and you are good to go!

CC 1420 Lecture 2: Daily cleaning checklist#1 – For Polaroid SX-70 camera

January 7, 2016February 3, 2016Leave a comment

INTRODUCTION

SX-70 users may face certain kinds of problem with SX-70, and in fact, many of those are not difficult to tackle with!

In this lecture, you will learn how to daily clean your own Polaroid SX-70 camera. Do it yourself!

CIRCUMSTANCES

Out of tune images / Light spot

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Splotchy
Rollers

It is the most common problem that SX-70 users always face and this is possibly caused by splotchy rollers. Rollers inside the film door is a critical component for image processing. During the immediate ejection process after shooting, two rollers pushes the chemicals out of the packs at the back of film and let the chemicals to be evenly distributed on the image. When the rollers are rough, it is likely to have undeveloped spots.

Moreover, there will be chemical residue left on the rollers from time to time. The chemical residue will dry and turn into white patches and block the rollers. As a result, out of tune images or light spots may appear due to uneven roll pressure. Even worse, the camera may fail in ejecting films.

PRECAUTION

CLEAN THE ROLLERS WITH
STERILISING FLUID REGULARLY

Instructions:

1. Get a cotton cloth and dip it with Sterilising Fluid.
2. Wipe the rollers from one side to another, until the white patches are all removed.
3. The fluid should dry itself quickly without wiping it off.
4. your camera will run like new!

CC 1420 Lecture 1: Film storage – How to keep film in good condition

January 7, 2016January 21, 2016Leave a comment

AFTER PURCHASE

When you purchase a fresh pack of film for your Polaroid camera, normally an unopened package is allowed to store for 12 months. For opened film, better to finish photographing within a month.

Optimum range of temperature for Impossible Project film storage is between 15°C – 20°C (59°F – 68°F). As the film is super sensitive to light, avoid any exposure to sunlight. Otherwise it may cause undesirable chemical reaction.

For Fujifilm instant color film, keep it in the fridge at temperature below 10°C (50°F). Opened film packs can also be kept in the fridge by placing them into polyethylene or vinyl bags.

Store your films in a cool place and avoid sunlight. Do not store your films in damp proofing box – film chemicals will dry and will no longer develop images. Before use, try to settle to room temperature if the film is placed in the fridge. If you use the film while it is still cold, the photo quality may be adversely affected by condensation.

AFTER CARE

(In short run) Shading

When the photo is ejected immediately after photographing, that will be the critical moment! Shield it from light immediately.

When developed film is exposed to strong light, the image will increase it brightness by approximately two stops. Somehow this will ruin the picture.

The best and most effective approach is to use a Frog Tongue. The frog tongue will essentially cover the photo when it is ejected, leaving it no chance at all to encounter light. Or a more economical way is to tape a black card on top of the picture exit slot. It acts similar to the frog tongue but it could be annoying to tape on and off.

After ejection, do not leave the film under direct sunlight while it is still developing. Also, do not bend, fold, or put pressure on the photo or else may cause unevenness on the image.

(In short run) Development

Keep shielding the image from light when developing. In about 15 minutes, the image will nearly be developed and stabilised. instant-university_yellow-border

(In long run) Location

The quality of finished images will change during storage. The key is to store the image in a cool place, preferably the fridge (not freezer).

(In long run) Temperature

Storing in crisper drawer is the optimum solution for image stability. Do not store the film under 0°C / 32°F as this may devastate images.

(In long run) Methods

A. Make good use of your fridge

For the best results, put the photos in the fridge for 1 to 2 weeks. The temperature and humidity in crisper drawers (where to store fruits) can slower down the speed of changing colour and is effective to keep the color on films. After 2 weeks, you will find the pictures become rigid and stiff, that means the pictures have already “cooled down” and can exhibit like normal.

For Fujifilm, keep images in a dark dry and well-ventilated location away from gases. You don’t need to keep Fujifilm in the fridge like Impossible Project film.

B. Emulsion lift

It is about removing the emulsion layer from a sheet of Polaroid / Impossible or Fuji film and transferring it onto other surfaces such as clothing, painting paper, mug etc. After that the image is forever kept. During the process of emulsion lift, you can even enlarge or change the shape of the image. Special kit is needed for emulsion lift.

C. Air the chemical

Some will cut out 2 blank boxes behind Polaroid / Impossible image so as to fasten up the speed of drying chemicals. But after a certain period of time, the image will fade especially Black & White photos. Moreover, the back of image is unavoidably damaged thus many photographers avoid using this method.

WHAT IS IT?

WHAT YOU NEED

Instant photo x 1

Scissors x 1

Soft paintbrush x 2-3

Tray of water (in room temperature) x 1

Carrier surface

STEP-BY-STEP

IMPORTANT NOTE

WHAT IS IT?

HOW?

HISTORY

DEFINITION

WHAT IS IT?

WHEN?

WHICH CAMERA?

IMPOSSIBLE EVOLUTION

Old cameras & new films

AT PRESENT

THE IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT

FUJIFILM

INSTRUCTION

CHECKLIST

The essential

SYMPTOM

Possible causes

Solution

SYMPTOM

Possible cause

Solution

SYMPTOM

Possible cause #1

Solution

Possible cause #2

Solution

SYMPTOM

Possible cause

Solution

WHY ANNOTATE?

HOW?

BRING FILMS AS CARRY-ON LUGGAGE

PHOTOGRAPHING IN EXTREME TEMPERATURES

SHIELDING

THE USE OF MANUAL FOCUS

INTRODUCTION

CIRCUMSTANCES

Out of tune images / Light spot

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Splotchy Rollers

PRECAUTION

CLEAN THE ROLLERS WITH STERILISING FLUID REGULARLY

AFTER PURCHASE

AFTER CARE

(In short run) Shading

(In short run) Development

(In long run) Location

(In long run) Temperature

(In long run) Methods

Splotchy
Rollers

CLEAN THE ROLLERS WITH
STERILISING FLUID REGULARLY